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I remember my first surfing experiences back in
the mid-50s as a beach gremlin at the foot of Bayshore Drive in
Long Beach. One of my uncles was among those who surfed the gentle
waves in that area during the early days. Every now and then someone
would loose their board and the kids on the beach would try to retrieve
it. Sometimes they would get a push in ride from whoever lost their
boards. These early memories were the beginnings of the spark.
By the late 50s to very early 60s, Chuck Linnen,
a lifeguard in the bay area of Bayshore, became our local surf king.
He was the one to we kids looked up to, great volleyball player,
great surfer, and popular with the girls. We all wanted to become
surfers and be like him. More sparks to start the flame.
Group at the Cliff's about 1963, Bruce on the right. photo courtesty
of Bruce Gabrielson
I first started surfing across the inlet at Ray
Bay by the Power Plant in Seal Beach in 1960. Chuck surfed there
so of course I tried my best whenever he was around. Finally, one
day I had enough courage to paddle into the middle of the channel
where the “big” names were surfing. Wouldn’t you
know it, I caught my first good wave and surfed right past Chuck.
I could hear him hooting all the way and when I was paddling back
out, he came over to me and said I had rode a great wave. Chuck
became my friend and helped my spark turned into a small flame.
He has been my friend through college and later years and is still
my close friend today.
Around 1964 I met Dewey Webber through my wrestling
activities. He was widely recognized as a famous surfer and knowing
him really made me want to get better. Dewey subsequently got me
my first new board, a Webber noserider. By then I was in college,
feeling competent of my surfing skills, and had even entered some
bigger contests. My surf partners were John Geyer from Newport Beach,
a member of the Surfboards Hawaii Surf Team, and Raul Duarte from
Huntington Beach. One thing led to another and John was able to
get me onto the Surfboards Hawaii Team in 1966.
In the spring of 1967, Gary Wurster and I started
surfing for Soul Surfboards in Huntington Beach. I had a WSA and
USSA ranking by then, was known as the Huntington Beach “Snake”
(another story), and was serious into board designs and what the
various designs could do. Dale Velzy was the shaper for Soul, and
I spent a great deal of time working with him in his stall on new
board designs.
The industry was just going into the short board
era, so we were both experimenting a lot. He came up with something
and I tried it out. I was trying to figure out how to get a flexible
turning board and a nose design that didn’t grab and spent
a long evening working with Dale on the design. It was glassed in
a couple of days and when it didn’t work, I came back to Dale
to get something changed for a new design. I remember the evening
well. First he asked me to go get a bottle of Peach Brandy. When
I came back, he handed me his planer, sat down on a chair in the
stall, and opened the bottle. Then, after slowly taking a drink
he paused and said it was time for me to get serious and shape my
own board.
That was the beginning of the fire. My Surf Gooroo
was sitting there, helping me shape, checking everything out as
I went, and telling me stories about his surfing adventures. I’m
sure he was also imparting to me both wisdom and his particular
brand of surf culture. Obviously, I listened and learned.
Dale left Soul several months later and Steve Boehne
became the new shaper. I moved on about a month later. It wasn’t
that Steve didn’t shape good boards, he did, but without Dale
it just wasn’t the same. Another friend of mine, Steve Walden,
was opening his own shop just up the street. My surf partner Charley
Ray and I liked Steve and decided to surf for him as his first team
riders. I still wanted to shape, but no money for equipment and
no place to work had pretty much shut down my fires for awhile.
I surfed for Steve about two months. Then one evening
I got a call from Dale to come over for a visit. He was meeting
with Dale Rogers of Rogers Foam and they had been talking about
me. When I got there, Dale told me he had some things to give me.
He opened my van and started loading racks, his shaping stand, florescent
lights, sanding blocks, templates, and various other things. Among
his templates was a nose template, tail template, gun template,
two longboard templates, and a mini-longboard template, all made
out of unfinished plywood. When I asked him about those, he said
they were his early day templates and that he wouldn’t need
them anymore. He also said that I might want to use them someday
if I ever shaped a balsa or one of his longboard designs. Except
for those I’ve donated to various museums, I still have most
of these templates today.
Finally he brought out his planer. As he and gave
it to me he also gave me one of his serious “go forth and
prosper” speeches. I wasn’t really sure if he was blessing
me or just saying to have fun and make some money. I was stunned
to say the least. My shaping mentor had just put me into the surfboard
business in a big way. I raced back to tell Charley that we needed
to get a place to make boards and that our break had come.
Nearly everyone in Huntington was impressed with
my good fortune. Years later Dale told me that he planned to retire
from shaping and that Rogers suggested he give his shaping equipment
to someone just getting started and needing a break. I was high
on their list, and, being Dale’s most recent protégé,
both thought I should inherit the trove. My spark had turned into
a full-fledged bonfire.
Our first boards were built at a warehouse in Costa
Mesa, then about a month later under an awning behind my house off
Garfield and Beach Blvd. in Huntington Beach. The only lasted a
short time also as my parents had purchased a new house on he corner
of Garfield and Delware and were getting ready move. By the time
Wave Trek was into full production, we had moved to a new building
behind their new home. An interesting story about the Wave Trek
factory behind my parent’s place on the corner of Garfield
and Delaware is worth telling. The little red four room building
is actually the oldest building still standing in Huntington. It
was built by an original settler, a Mexican farmer, in the early
1890s. It’s siding is rough-cut boards from the saw mill in
Santa Anna that existed during that time period.
My parent's house was built on a ¼ acre parcel
of land next door to the grand children of the farmer in the early
1940s. The Wave Trek building was partially on both house plots,
so my father pulled completely onto our place with a tractor rather
then having it torn down. It sat there for a long time with no electricity
and running water until I finally came up with the idea for my new
shop.
We had just an electric extension cord and a hose
at first, but finally got the place fully wired and water pipes
installed as our business expanded. The smallest room just happened
to be the right size to shape boards, so this became my shaping
stall. Several years later, John “Whitney” Guild came
to work for us and we moved the shaping room to a larger room. Whitney
stayed in the small room.
Charley Ray and I decided on the name Wave Trek based on the TV
series Star Trek. At first I shaped and Charley glassed, but I finally
learned to do everything. While I shaped a lot of boards, I was
less interested in shaping strictly off-the-shelf boards, and tried
to focus my concentration on boards for Wave Trek team riders. We
had some of the best around, and I worked with them, just as Velzy
had worked with me, to produce designs that did just about anything
we wanted them to.

Bruce second from the left
taking third. Donald Takayama takes 1st.
Some
of those who I shaped boards for included Tim Wirick, Mickey Dora,
and Mary Setterholm. I’ve included a few stories about these
surfers that might be of interest to readers. .
Tim
Wirick was one of the top surfers from the Torrance area beginning
in the 60s. He became part of the Wave Trek Team around 1970 and
stayed with us for many years. I still see him every now and then
when I get to Laguna Beach. Tim liked one board design so much that
even after he broke it, we put it back together and he continued
to compete and place in 4A events with it. We called it the Gray
Ghost because of the gray pigment hiding the break. It was heavy,
but although I tried hard, I just couldn’t duplicate the design
exactly to his liking.

Bruce sanding behind the shop circa
1970
I’ve
told the story about Dora’s one-day board a few times before
and it’s posted on Tom McBride’s website. One day Charley
and I were checking waves at the pier when Dora walked up to us
out of the blue and started talking about how he didn’t like
the board he was riding and would like to find a new sponsor. We
knew he was fishing, but then again this was DaCat.
It
didn’t take us long to convince him to ride for Wave Trek.
His only problem was he wanted a custom board that day as he wouldn’t
be back to HB for awhile. We were getting ready to head to the shop
anyway, so with Mickey in tow, we headed back and got to work. I
shaped the design he wanted, the equivalent of what would now be
a fun shape, and then with no one else around, glassed it, fill
coated it, sanded it, glossed it, and buffed it, all in about 5
hours. Spending 5 hours with Mickey was as interesting as building
a 5-hour board. He was something else.

Bruce
shooting the HB Pier and making it to the other side, circa 1972
("Aiming behind one piling which allows room to manuever the
next pre-middle piling. Still a difficult move at low tide!"
Tom Takao)
Mary
Setterholm was one of my surf protégés early on. Although
she was very good when I met her, I could easily tell she would
eventually become a champion surfer. As with our other riders, I
spent time with her in the stall working out designs that we thought
would perform well for a girl her size. I remember one design that
she really liked, and that she wanted some special coloring in the
glass job. A female unique board was nearly unheard of back then.
I recall we glassed it with pink and purple, and she told me a few
years ago that this was likely one of the first whaine surf board.
I’ve
been asked how Greek and I were so close, even when we were in competition
with each other. The majority of Wave Trek team riders were also
Greek Team riders at one time or another. Also, Greek was/is a tremendous
board designer. He and I understand that a good design is a good
design, no matter who shaped it. Greek had just developed a superb
low rail design that John Van Ornum was riding when he started surfing
for Wave Trek. I tried it out and was so impressed I had Greek shape
one for me. He had no problem with this. It had a Wave Trek label
and glass job, but had his name on it. I subsequently placed 3rd
at the US Championships riding that board. By the way, VO is one
of those who I subsequently taught how to shape his own boards.
I continued
to shape and make boards until 1978 when Wave Trek was hit with
a robbery that my insurance wouldn’t cover. Someone took out
part of the back window and carried out all the finished boards
we had plus some equipment and blanks. LaRoy Dennis and I were making
all the boards by then. I just couldn’t afford to replace
everything, so folded up shop. I still continued to shape until
the early 80s, but only a few custom boards for friends and ex-team
riders. I moved from Huntington Beach to Chesapeake Beach, Maryland,
in 1980.
Today
I’m long retired as a shaper, only shaping a few personal
boards for myself or for close friends each year. I still have and
sometimes use Dale’s original templates and equipment, and
these will probably end up in museums someday. Also, besides my
own shapes, I still get boards from Steve Walden and Greek. Interesting
about this surfing life how I seem to have gone full circle on boards,
rider, shaper, surf shop owner and now back to rider, all the while
with Snakes on my boards.
In
a way I owe Dale for much more then just my skill and interest in
shaping. Dale's generosity gave me both a skill and a job I could
do while I attended college. I went to college 9 years and subsequently
graduated with a Doctorate in Engineering. I told Dale a number
of times over the years that he helped put me through college. I'm
not sure he ever figured out just how. |